Introduction:
As you modify the engine of your Z, you might want to make sure the fuel is delivered in a flawless manner. In addition to this, you might want to utilize an adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator in order to fine tune the fuel delivery. The answer to these concerns lies with the conversion of the stock fuel line to one that consists of SS braided line. Not only does braided line function better than the stock line, it easily adapts to aftermarket parts such as Fuel Pressure Regulators and Billet Fuel Filters. In addition to this, it looks a lot better when it is complete! The process is somewhat intricate, and requires an adequate level of mechanical skill to complete. In this article, I am demonstrating how I converted my stock lines to braided. The whole process should only take a weekend, and it should cost less than $400. Note: This picture shows the parts that I originally purchased for this project. Refer to the List below for exact parts needed.
 Details:
One of the concerns that keeps people away from doing this mod is the necessity to weld AN fittings to the stock heard fuel lines. I have found a way around this problem, so it takes a lot of the stress out of the job! The closest AN size to our stock lines is -6. This is the size of the fuel line that you will want to use (unless you want to achieve monster HP). The size of the stock hard lines is 5/16". With this basic knowledge, I will now list the parts needed for this conversion. PS: Earls Hose Ends come in an Auto-Fit and Swivel-Seal variety. I think the Swivel Seals are easier to assemble, so use those when possible! Tools:
A Vice
Earl's Vice Jaws
-6 An Wrench
Earl's Assembly Lube or Motor Oil
Dremel w/ Cut off Disc
Masking Tape
Vaseline
Additional Metric/SAE wrenches (depending on brand of fitting)
Goo Gone
Q-Tips Parts:
6 Ft. of Earls (Or equivalent) SS Braided hose. I used the Earls Perform-O-Flex hose on my setup. 4 5/16" to -6 Female AN Adapters (Used to adapt AN fittings to the hardlines) 1 -6 180 Degree Hose End (Used on the feed side of the fuel rail) 3 -6 90 Degree Hose Ends (Used to bring the lines from the bottom of the engine bay into the fuel filter and FPR. Also used on the output side of the fuel filter) 1 -6 45 Degree Hose End (Used on the return line to the FPR) 3 -6 Male Hose Ends (Used to adapt the SS line to the compression fittings on the fuel rail and hard lines) 1 -6 to -6 Male Adapter (Used to adapt the 180 degree bend to the compression fitting on the feed side of the fuel rail) 1 Aeromitove A1000 FPR (-6 version) - This will require 1 -6 O-Ring Sealed plug and 2 -6 O-Ring sealed adapters 1 SX Billet Fuel Filter - This will require 2 -10 to -6 adapters 1 Upper Intake Manifold -> Lower Intake Manifold Gasket Steps: Note: I performed this mod with the motor out of the car. I was able to eliminate all of the stock rubber lines from the system by accessing the lower part of the engine bay. If you want to do this with the motor in the car, you can always place your compression fittings on the hard lines that go to the fuel filter and fuel rail. 1. Disable the fuel system by removing green relay located in the drivers side kick panel. Remove all of the stock fuel hosing from the engine bay. Clean up any fuel that spills to the ground or on the paint. Remove intake manifold and fuel rail. Use the injector replacement FAQ for info on the intake manifold removal. 2. Locate the two stock hardlines coming up into the engine bay from under the car.
 3. Take a metal hacksaw, and cut the tips off of the hardlines so that the bump is gone (cut directly below the bump). You want to be able to slide the compression fitting onto the tube. When cutting the tubes, make sure to cut very slowly! You do not want anything to spark! This is why I did not use a dremel in this step.
 4. After the tips are removed, take 120 grit sandpaper and de-bur the area that was cut. 5. After smooting out the top of the hard lines, take some Q-tips (w/ Goo Gone on them) and stick them down into the hardlines. This will help clean the debris out of te holes. In addition to this, you might want to consider using a shop vac to suck and debris out of the hard lines depending on how clean your Q-Tips come out. 6. Disassemble two compression fittings and slide the red parts onto the hard lines. Once the red part of the fitting is on the line, push the brass compression ring onto the hardline. Ideally, you want the brass ring to make full contact with the hardline. If you can't get the brass ring down that far, keep wiggling the red part of the fitting down until you gain enough clearance.
 7. Once you are satisfied, screw the blue part of the fitting onto the hardline. As you screw the two parts of the fitting together, make sure that the red part stays where it was originally placed. You do not want this to travel up to meet the blue part of the fitting. Tighten down the fittings until they are secured onto the hardlines.
 8. Now you need to assemble your first hose that will attach to these fittings. Measure a length of hose that will reach from the fitting to where you want to place your fuel filter. Tightly wrap masking tape around the place that you want to cut the hose at. 
9. Secure the hose in the vice, and use your Dremel with a cutoff disc to cut through the SS braids. DO NOT cut through the hose completely. Try to just cut the SS Braid. Use a razor blade to slice off the rest of the hose. If you accidentally cut into the hose with your dremel, you must clean it out in order to remove the debris. 10. Once the hose is cut, dissasemble a -6 Male Hose End. Lube the braids around the end of the hose with motor oil. Lube the inside of the red section of the fitting. Place the fitting in the vise (make sure you have the vise jaws on) and begin to work the braided line into the fitting from the top. I like to stick one side of the hose in, and rotate it aroundmaking sure that all the strands are forced into the fitting. Once you have all the strands in, wiggle the hose into the red fitting until it reaches about 1/4cm from the end. Take the blue part of the hose end and lube its threads with motor oil. Place vaseline on the inside of the hose. Slide the blue part of the fitting into the hose. With the hose positioned horizontally in the vice, pull back on the hose until the blue fitting meets the red fitting. Screw the blue part into the red part, making sure that the red part doesnt move up on the hose. Tightenthe two together until they wont turn anymore. You have just completed a hose end! In The Vice
 This is about how far you want to puch the hose into the red part of the fitting.
 Tightening the fitting. (Note, I am using a 90 degree bend hose end instead of the Male -6 hose end. They both go on the same however.)
 Finished Fitting
 11. Repeat this process for the rest of the hose ends. 12. Repeat steps 3-7 on the stock fuel rail. This might be a little more difficult than before. You will need as much room as you can get on the fuel rail lines for the compression fittings, so cut VERY close to the barb. I ended up cutting the fuel rail with my dremel, after making sure there was no gasoline inside. Try not to tear any remaining metal pieces off the rail. When you do this, it weakens the integrity of the hose barb as seen in the picture. I don't think it will matter in the long run however.
 Fuel Rail Completed
 13. Install the fuel rail and intake manifold again. Make new lines that will go from the FPR and Fuel Filter to the fuel rail. Refer to the pictures and text above in order to know where to place each fitting.
 14. Mount the fuel filter and FPR to the engine bay. I used the existing holes leftover from the removal of the stock hardline bracket and fuel filter. Mounted Fuel Filter and FPR
 15. Re-assemble the rest of the car, and turn the car on. 16. Adjust the pressure on the FPR to ~44 psi with the vacuum hose disconnected. The Fuel Pressure gauge should read ~38 psi when the hose is connected. 17. Make sure there are no leaks in the system, and make sure all the connections are tight. You are now done! Since the scope of this project can change from car to car, I did not take measurments of my hoses. Hopefully, you can see where I placed my hose ends from the pictures and descriptions. If you have any additional questions, feel free to e-mail me at punkztt@msn.com
Good Luck! A few pictures for clarification on the finished product. Forgive the dirty car/engine bay :)
 Special Notes:
This style compression fitting will not work. I purchased these originally, and they did not seal properly. Stick with the brass ring type of compression fittings.
 This is a picture of a -6 Male hose end if you need any clarification.
 - Currently Broken |
Converting Stock Fuel Lines to SS Braided Lines - 
